When it comes to picking out skincare products, how much notice do you really give the ingredients?
Sure, we all want to make sure that the products we are putting on our skin are safe and effective.
But with so many skincare products on the shelves, knowing which products are made with skin-safe ingredients (and which are just a marketing ploy) can be a challenge.
Some of the most confusing? Products that market themselves as made with AHA and BHA. These mysterious acronyms are two of skincare's most important ingredients – alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids.
Knowing the differences (and how to shop for the right products for your skin type) could make or break your routine and results!
What are Alpha Hydroxy Acids?
Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble compounds that are found and taken from natural sources.
For instance, did you know that sugar cane gives us glycolic acid, the most popular AHA? Milk is also a source, providing skin-saving lactic acid.
These surface-level exfoliants dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells and give way to the fresh, healthy skin underneath.
The magic of AHAs lies in their ability to transform skin texture and tone. When you apply an AHA like a glycolic acid serum, you're essentially giving your skin permission to shed its dull, damaged outer layer.
What are Beta Hydroxy Acids?
AHAs work most of their magic on the surface. BHAs dive deeper to provide long-lasting skincare results.
Beta hydroxy acids are known as “oil-soluble”, which means they can cut through sebum and penetrate directly into your pores.
For example, salicylic acid, the most common BHA, comes from willow bark and has been used medicinally for centuries.
This oil-soluble nature makes BHAs particularly effective for those dealing with acne and blackheads. They clear out blemishes and prevent new ones from forming by keeping pores clear of debris.
Eva Naturals' Azelaic Acid 10% Facial Serum offers similar deep-cleaning benefits with the added advantage of reducing inflammation and evening out skin tone.
The Main Difference? Solubility
So what’s the main difference between AHAs and BHAs? It all comes down to solubility.
We like to think of it this way: water-soluble AHAs glide over your skin's surface like a gentle polish, while oil-soluble BHAs offer a deep-cleaning treatment that works through your skin's natural oils.
Once you know the difference, you’ll know how to buy and apply the right products!
AHAs excel at addressing concerns visible on the surface. You can use AHA products to treat fine lines, uneven texture, and skin dullness. BHAs tackle problems that originate deeper in the skin, particularly within the pores themselves.
How to Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin Type
When to Choose AHA
Does your skin feel rough? Do you find that it’s showing signs of sun damage? AHA should be your go-to.
These acids work particularly well for dry to normal skin types because they can exfoliate and help your skin retain moisture. The humectant properties of many AHAs can improve your skin's hydration levels over time.
Our Eva Naturals’ Glycolic Acid Face Wash & Cleanser is a great product entry point for those who are just getting started with AHAs. It's rinsed off rather than left on the skin, and it provides gentle exfoliation without the risk of irritation.
When BHA May Work Better
Those who have oily and acne-prone skin types typically see the best results with BHA.
For instance, if blackheads or persistent breakouts are your nemesis, then you’ll find that BHA's ability to penetrate oil-filled pores makes it uniquely effective.
Those dealing with rosacea often find that BHA helps calm redness and reduce flare-ups. The key is starting with a low concentration and building tolerance gradually.
Tips for Building Your AHA + BHA Skincare Routine
As with all skincare routines, you’ll want to practice patience as you find the right solution for your skin.
Start with twice-weekly applications, preferably in the evening. Your skin will need some time to adjust to the increased cell turnover, and rushing this process can lead to irritation and setbacks.
For AHA beginners, apply your chosen product to clean, dry skin. Wait about 20 minutes before applying other products to allow the acid to work effectively. This waiting period helps prevent potential interactions with different ingredients.
While both acids can be used during the day, AHAs are best reserved for nighttime use. They increase photosensitivity significantly, making your skin more vulnerable to sun damage. BHAs, being less photosensitizing, offer more flexibility in timing.
An alternating schedule might work best. Monday might be AHA night, Tuesday for BHA, Wednesday for rest, etc. This prevents over-exfoliation while helping your skin get the most out of both acids.
The Path to Radiant Skin Starts Here
Remember, healthy skin is a journey, not a destination. You’ll find that adding specific chemical exfoliation to your routine can help lead to improved texture within two to four weeks. But always take the time to adjust your skincare routine to your body’s response and needs.
Above all, consistency matters more than concentration! A lower percentage used regularly will outperform a high-strength treatment used sporadically. Whether you choose AHA or BHA, the key is listening to your skin and adjusting accordingly. Some may find their perfect routine uses both acids strategically, while others achieve their goals with just one.
What works for your friend might not work for you, and that's perfectly normal. Start slowly, pay attention to how your skin responds, and don't be afraid to adjust your approach!
FAQ
What are AHA and BHA examples?
AHAs can be found naturally in many sources, such as glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from milk), citric acid (from citrus fruits), malic acid (from apples), and tartaric acid (from grapes). Glycolic acid is the most commonly used AHA in skincare due to its small molecular size and effectiveness.
BHA examples are more limited, with salicylic acid being the primary BHA used in skincare.
Is salicylic acid a BHA or AHA?
Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid). Its oil-soluble properties allow it to penetrate through sebum into pores, making it particularly effective for treating acne, blackheads, and oily skin conditions.
How do I know if I need BHA or AHA?
You’ll want to pick AHA if you're dealing with surface-level concerns like fine lines, uneven skin tone, rough texture, or sun damage. AHAs are also great for dry to normal skin that needs both exfoliation and hydration.
Choose BHA if you are dealing with acne, blackheads, enlarged pores, or excess oil production.
Can I use AHA and BHA together?
Yes, you can use both AHAs and BHAs in your skincare routine, but timing and method matter. The safest approaches include alternating days (AHA one day, BHA the next), using them at different times (BHA in the morning, AHA at night), or applying them to different areas of your face based on specific needs.
What is the difference between glycolic acid and salicylic acid?
Glycolic acid is an AHA that works on the skin's surface to improve texture, tone, and signs of aging. It has the smallest molecular size among AHAs, allowing for effective penetration and results. Salicylic acid is a BHA that penetrates pores to clear congestion and reduce acne.